Hey there! I’m Yashwant, and if you’re thinking about giving your kitchen a fresh look without the hassle and cost of a full remodel, painting your cabinets is one of the most impactful changes you can make. I’ve helped dozens of homeowners transform tired, dated kitchens into bright, modern spaces just by rolling up their sleeves and tackling the cabinets. And the best part? You don’t need to be a pro to get pro-level results.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through everything I’ve learned from real projects from the prep work that makes or breaks the finish, to the exact paints and primers that hold up to daily wear. Whether you’re a beginner or have a few DIY projects under your belt, this step-by-step approach will help you avoid common mistakes and end up with cabinets that look like they were done by a high-end contractor.
By the end, you’ll know exactly how to prep, prime, paint, and protect your cabinets for a finish that lasts years, not months.
Why Paint Your Kitchen Cabinets?
Let’s be honest: replacing kitchen cabinets is expensive. We’re talking thousands, even tens of thousands, depending on your kitchen size. But repainting? You can do it for under $300–$500, and the transformation is just as dramatic.
I worked with a client last year whose oak cabinets were golden-brown and felt stuck in the 1990s. After painting them a soft matte grey, the whole kitchen felt larger, brighter, and more modern. She told me, “It’s like I have a new kitchen without moving a single wall.”
And that’s the magic of cabinet painting it’s affordable, sustainable, and completely customizable.
Now, let’s get into the real stuff.
Step 1: Assess Your Cabinets’ Condition
Before you buy a single drop of paint, take a close look at your cabinets.
- Are they solid wood, MDF, or laminate?
- Are the doors warped, cracked, or water-damaged?
- Do the hinges still work smoothly?
If your cabinets are structurally sound, painting is a great option. But if there’s rot, deep warping, or major damage, it might be better to replace them.
What I’ve found: Solid wood and MDF take paint beautifully. Laminate is trickier but doable with the right primer. Avoid painting over peeling veneer—patch or replace those panels first.
Pro tip: Take one cabinet door off and test a small area. If the paint adheres well after prep, you’re good to go.
Step 2: Gather Your Supplies
Here’s the exact toolkit I use for every cabinet painting job:
- Degreaser (like Krud Kutter or TSP substitute)
- Sandpaper: 120-grit and 220-grit (or an orbital sander for large jobs)
- Liquid deglosser (optional, but great for hard-to-reach areas)
- Microfiber cloths
- Drop cloths or plastic sheeting
- Screwdriver and ziplock bags (label each for reassembly)
- Primer: STIX® Waterborne Bonding Primer or BIN Shellac (more on this later)
- Paint: Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel or Benjamin Moore ADVANCE®
- Foam roller (4-inch) and angled brush (2-inch)
- Paint tray and liners
- Fine steel wool (0000 grade) for smoothing between coats
Cost estimate: $250–$400, depending on kitchen size.
Timeframe: 3–5 days for prep and painting, plus drying time.
Step 3: Remove and Label Everything
Take off all cabinet doors, drawers, and hardware. Use a screwdriver and keep screws organized in labeled bags—“Upper Left Corner,” “Island Drawer,” etc.
Lay doors flat on drop cloths or sawhorses. Never lean them—this can cause warping over time.
Avoid this: Don’t skip removing hardware. Painting around knobs leaves a messy edge and traps grime.
Step 4: Clean Thoroughly—No Shortcuts!
Kitchens are greasy. Even if your cabinets look clean, years of cooking leave invisible oil buildup.
Mix warm water with a few drops of dish soap or use a dedicated degreaser. Wipe every surface, inside and out. Pay extra attention to the stovetop area and handles.
Rinse with a damp cloth and let dry completely—at least 4–6 hours.
Pro tip: I once skipped deep cleaning on a quick job. The paint bubbled within weeks. Lesson learned: clean like your finish depends on it—because it does.
Step 5: Sand for Adhesion
Sanding isn’t optional. It creates “tooth” so the primer sticks.
- Start with 120-grit to dull the surface.
- Follow with 220-grit for a smooth base.
- Wipe away dust with a microfiber cloth.
For laminate or glossy finishes, you can use liquid deglosser instead of sanding, but I prefer doing both for maximum adhesion.
What works best: Use a sanding block for flat areas, and hand-sand the corners. An orbital sander speeds things up but can gouge edges if you’re not careful.
Step 6: Prime—The Secret to a Lasting Finish
This is where most DIYers cut corners. Don’t.
Primer ensures even coverage, blocks stains, and helps paint bond. For kitchens, I only use two types:
- BIN Shellac Primer – Amazing adhesion and stain-blocking. Dries fast (30–45 minutes), but strong odor—use in a ventilated area.
- STIX® Waterborne Bonding Primer – Low odor, great for laminate and MDF. Takes longer to dry (2–3 hours) but cleans up with water.
Apply with a foam roller for flat surfaces and a brush for edges. Keep the coat thin and even.
Let dry completely, then lightly sand with 220-grit or steel wool. Wipe clean.
Avoid this: Skipping primer to save time. Without it, your paint may peel, especially in high-moisture areas.
Step 7: Choose the Right Paint
Not all paints are made for cabinets. You need something durable, washable, and resistant to wear.
After testing five different brands, here are my top picks:
- Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel – A hybrid alkyd that dries to a hard, furniture-like finish. Resists chipping, yellowing, and moisture. Available in satin or semi-gloss.
- Benjamin Moore ADVANCE® – Water-based but performs like oil. Smooth application, low odor, and dries in 16 hours.
Color tip: I love Agreeable Gray (SW 7029) or Revere Pewter (HC-172) for a timeless look. For a bold statement, try Tricorn Black (SW 6258) on lower cabinets with white uppers.
Pro tip: Buy a quart extra. You’ll need it for touch-ups down the road.
Step 8: Apply Paint in Thin, Even Coats
Less is more.
- Use a foam roller for flat panels.
- Use an angled brush for grooves and edges.
- Roll in one direction, then lightly back-brush to eliminate roller marks.
Apply the first coat and let it dry fully—up to 16 hours for water-based paints.
Lightly sand with 220-grit or steel wool, wipe clean, then apply the second coat.
Most cabinets need two coats. Three if you’re going from dark to light.
Avoid this: Applying thick coats. They lead to drips, runs, and longer drying times.
Step 9: Reinstall with Care
Once everything is dry (wait at least 48 hours), reattach doors and hardware.
Use a level to ensure doors hang straight. If hinges are worn, replace them—new ones cost under $2 each and make a big difference.
Pro tip: Install soft-close hinges. They prevent slamming and add a premium feel.
Bonus: Paint the Cabinet Interiors (Optional)
Most people forget the inside—but it matters.
I painted the interiors of my client’s cabinets in a soft white. It made the space feel brighter and cleaner. Use the same paint, but you can skip primer if the surface is already light-colored.
Common Mistakes & How to Avoid Them
Let’s talk about the pitfalls I’ve seen (and made myself):
- Skipping sanding or cleaning: Leads to peeling. Always prep.
- Using wall paint: It’s not durable enough. Use cabinet-specific paint.
- Rushing between coats: Causes poor adhesion. Follow recoat times.
- Not labeling doors: You’ll waste time figuring out where each goes.
- Painting in high humidity: Delays drying and can cause bubbling. Aim for 50–60% humidity.
How Long Will Painted Cabinets Last?
With proper prep and quality materials, 5–10 years is realistic. I’ve had cabinets that still look great after 8 years with normal use.
To extend life:
- Clean with a damp cloth—no harsh chemicals.
- Avoid soaking water near edges.
- Touch up chips promptly.
FAQs
1. Can I paint cabinets without removing them?
You can, but it’s harder to get a smooth, even finish. Removing doors lets you work flat and avoid brush marks. If you must paint in place, mask off countertops and use drop cloths.
2. Do I need to prime if my cabinets are white?
Yes. Even white cabinets need primer for adhesion and stain blocking, especially if they’re glossy or have grease buildup.
3. Is spraying better than brushing?
Spraying gives the smoothest finish, but it requires equipment, ventilation, and skill. For most homeowners, brushing and rolling with a foam roller works great if done carefully.
4. What’s the best finish for kitchen cabinets?
Satin or semi-gloss. They’re easier to clean and more durable than matte. I prefer satin for a modern, soft look.
5. How do I prevent brush strokes?
Use a high-quality angled brush, apply thin coats, and lightly back-brush after rolling. Letting the paint level out naturally helps too.
6. Can I paint laminate cabinets?
Yes! Clean well, lightly sand or use deglosser, then use a bonding primer like STIX®. Avoid heavy sanding—it can damage the laminate layer.
Final Thoughts
Painting kitchen cabinets isn’t the fastest DIY project, but it’s one of the most rewarding. With the right prep, materials, and patience, you can achieve a high-end look for a fraction of the cost.
I’ve seen homeowners gain confidence after completing this project some even went on to paint their whole house!
So take your time, follow these steps, and don’t rush the drying process. Your future self will walk into that kitchen every morning and smile.
If you found this helpful, share it with a friend who’s been staring at their old cabinets, wondering what to do. And if you have questions, drop them in the comments I read every one.